A Gentleman's Appearance

I have always held that grooming exists not for one's own vanity but to spare others any sense of unease. A well-kept appearance builds trust far more reliably than expensive garments ever could. In the pages that follow I shall set out the standards I observe each day: the selection and wearing of suits, the care of shoes, the neatness of hands and hair, and the discreet handling of scent.

The Difference Between Grooming and Fashion

Fashion expresses personal taste; grooming is simply the preparation that prevents discomfort in others. The two serve quite different ends.

A butler's dress admits no individuality. It must remain unobtrusive, spotlessly clean and appropriate to the occasion. When these three conditions are met, nothing more is required. Any outfit that draws attention works against the role we perform.

The principle is not confined to butlers. In any professional setting it is wiser to create conditions in which others may concentrate on the conversation rather than on one's appearance.

Choosing and Wearing a Suit

Fit must come first. When the shoulders, sleeve length and overall length are correct, even a modest cloth will look well; when they are not, the finest fabric will appear untidy.

The shoulder seam should sit exactly at the point of the shoulder, the cuff should reveal roughly one centimetre of shirt, and the jacket should cover the seat. These three measurements alone will give a ready-made suit a composed appearance. Without them, cost is irrelevant.

Navy or charcoal are the safest colours; the plainer the cloth, the more places it may be worn. Shirts should be white or a soft blue, with a firm, turned-down collar that holds its shape.

Caring for Shoes

Remove dirt, allow the leather to dry, and give each pair a day of rest. Shoes that are worn every day will not last.

On returning home I brush off any dust and insert shoe trees to preserve the shape. If the shoes are wet, I wipe them with a dry cloth and leave them in a well-ventilated place to dry naturally. Direct sunlight or proximity to a radiator will only harm the leather.

A weekly polish is sufficient. I work in the usual order: cleaner, cream, and a final buff. A little shine at toe and heel is enough to steady the whole impression.

A butler polishing a leather shoe with cloth and cream

Hands and Hair

The hands are the part of oneself most often seen. Nails must be kept short and the fingertips clean. Hair should be trimmed so that it never falls across the eyes.

Whether offering an object, opening a door or handing over papers, a butler's hands remain in the guest's line of sight. The length of the nails and the condition of the skin make an immediate difference. When gloves are required, their inner surfaces must also be kept spotless.

Hair is judged by whether the fringe stays clear of the eyes, especially when bowing. Any dressing used should be lightly scented at most.

The Use of Scent

The rule is simple: no scent at all. I aim for the absence of odour that comes from scrupulous cleanliness rather than from perfume.

At table any fragrance competes with the food. Preferences also vary widely from one person to another, and some guests may find even a pleasant scent disagreeable. That is why I never wear scent.

What matters is the state of being odourless. Careful airing of clothes, attention to perspiration and oral hygiene remove the causes rather than mask them.

The Daily Order

I prepare the following day's clothes the night before so that the morning requires no decisions. This simple habit is the surest way to maintain consistent standards.

Time and clear judgement are both limited in the morning. By laying out clothes, shoes and accessories the previous evening I reduce the chance of any oversight. That is why I always complete these preparations before retiring.

Good grooming is not a matter of talent but of method. Once the sequence is fixed, the same level of presentation can be sustained every day.

Frequently Asked Questions

What matters most in one's appearance?

Neatness. A well-fitting, clean and appropriate outfit inspires confidence more readily than costly garments.

How should one choose a suit?

By checking the position of the shoulders, the sleeve length and the overall length. When these three points fit the body, even a ready-made suit looks composed; when they do not, the finest cloth will appear untidy.

How are leather shoes best cared for?

Brush off dust on returning home and allow them to rest with shoe trees inserted. A weekly polish, following the usual sequence of cleaner, cream and buffing, is quite sufficient.

Should one wear scent?

I do not. At table fragrance competes with the food, and personal preferences differ. Rather than cover any odour I remove its causes so that nothing remains.

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