The Basics of Formalwear
Formal settings call for attire that follows traditional rules. For a gentleman, the highest formality is the tailcoat, then the tuxedo, then the dark suit.
For a lady, the foundation is an evening or cocktail dress, chosen by the hour and the formality of the venue, with care given to the length and to how much is revealed.
The Gentleman's Dress Code
Men's formalwear has a clear hierarchy, each level suited to a particular occasion. White tie means a black tailcoat, white piqué waistcoat, white bow tie and patent shoes, worn for state ceremonies, the grandest gala dinners, opera premieres and royal occasions.
Black tie means a black dinner jacket and trousers, a black bow tie, and a cummerbund or waistcoat, worn for wedding receptions, dinners at fine restaurants, charity galas and important corporate parties.
The dark suit, in navy or charcoal with a white or pale-blue shirt, silk tie and leather shoes, suits business dinners, daytime weddings, important meetings and cultural events.
The Lady's Dress Code
A lady's formalwear is decided by the hour and the formality of the occasion, with quite different rules for daytime and evening dress. Colour, fabric and accessories all matter, and the aim is an elegant whole in fine balance.
Daytime dress favours a knee length or below, sleeves or modest coverage, restrained colours, refined accessories such as pearls, and closed-toe shoes. Evening dress allows a long or cocktail dress, a modest décolleté, richer colour, fine jewellery and elegant heels.
Choosing Accessories
Accessories complete an outfit, yet excess can undermine dignity. In the spirit of 'less is more', choose a few things of quality.
A watch should be a slim dress watch with a leather or metal band and a restrained design, in harmony with the outfit; a bag, a small clutch of fine leather or fabric in a matching tone, holding only the essentials; and shoes, immaculately kept, of fine material, in a colour and style that suit the attire.
Season, Place and Culture
A dress code also needs adjusting for the season and the venue. In cold weather, choose an elegant coat and fine scarf, and mind how you remove and carry them indoors; in warm weather, favour breathable fabric and modest coverage.
In global company, understand religious and cultural customs and choose attire that gives no offence. As Butler Bell advises, the essence of a dress code is an expression of respect; true elegance is born from inner beauty.